Just here to cook

Alwina was my maternal grandmother. Not the warm and fuzzy kind of grandmother, not the kind to invite you into her kitchen and teach you how to cook, not the one who was quick to laugh or to give you a big hug, but she was the grandmother who fed you. A lot of food. And if you showed-up without an appetite, it was a serious insult. I think cooking for people was her one and only love language and this dish is the essence of any love I ever felt from her- wrapped up and thriving inside of a little buttered potato dumpling.

Side note: In Ukraine, they’re called Varenyky. In Poland, they’re Pierogi. Becasue of the war (WWII), my maternal grandparents lived in many places across Eastern Europe and some of their relatives settled in them. Both Ukraine and Poland were home at different parts of their lives before moving to California. Whatever you call them, they are deeply comforting to cook and eat!

Your Dough:

In a large bowl (or a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook),

combine by sifting:

• 3c Sonora White Wheat or unbleached All Purpose Flour
• 1 tsp salt

Add:

• 1 egg
• 1 c water

Knead until the dough comes together to form a ball and when you press on it, the indentation bounces back.

Cover in air-tight wrapping and set aside while you make your filling.

Your Filling:

• 1 yellow onion, sautéed with a few pinches of salt in oil until it’s golden brown
• 2 c baked russets, insides scooped out and peel discarded
• 1-3 tsp salt
• 1 c farmers cheese, drained and crumbled

Combine all of the filling ingredients and taste them to be sure that you like it. Add more salt if need be. A few cheese lumps are ok, but it should generally be smooth.

Your Process:

On a large work surface, dust some flour so that you can roll out your dough and it won’t stick. You want it about 1/4” thick.

Use a biscuit cutter or jar that’s about 3” in diameter to make your cuts that will be your dumplings.

Remove the extra dough (you can re-roll it if you have extra filling, but it won’t be quite as tender as this first roll-out of dough)

The next part is easier with multiple sets of hands, especially if those hands belong to kiddos. Once you have all of your rounds, use a spoon and place the filling in the center. Then, fold it in half to made a half moon shape and press the edges together between your fingers to make sure that they’re securely closed. You can use the tines of a fork against the table to further press down on them if you feel the need. You’ll get into a rhythm determining the best quantity for your specific dumplings, as well as forming them. And with multiple sets of hands, someone can cut, another person can stuff, and someone else can form. Just make sure to keep it fun! They don’t need be perfect, just delicious! Keep the rounds covered with a cloth so they don’t dry out. If, however, the dough is drying out faster than you can form them, dab a teensy little bit water on the edge and that will help them stick closed.

Have a large sheet pan, or a couple of them, with flour dusted over the surface nearby so that you have a place to put your dumplings once they’ve been formed. At this point, you can freeze them overnight and then place them into airtight containers or bags to keep in your freezer until a later date (up to 6 months ahead, even!).

This whole process can easily take a couple of hours, depending on how many you’re making, so think about doing them the day or a few days/ weeks ahead- or, if you and your pals are all cooking together, be sure to have them at the house early and with snacks so that you don’t feel rushed.

Cook Your Dumplings:

Get a large pot of salted water boiling and then add your dumplings one at a time. Once they float on the surface, they’re done. You can keep a large, oiled sheet pan on the side to put them as a holding place in case your pan don’t have enough room to fit them all at once.

At the same time you start your water to boil, place a large skillet or rondeau over medium heat and add at least a half stick of unsalted butter to it and let it melt.

As your dumplings are done, use a slotted spoon or spider, to remove them and place them directly in the pan with melted butter. You really just want to coat them and keep them warm until you serve them. And you’ll want this to be last thing, aside from dressing your salad, that happens before you sit down to dinner.

Once they’re all coated in melted butter, transfer them to your warm serving dish, or serve them straight out of the pan, sprinkle some fresh dill over the top and a few dollops of sour cream all over and you won’t want for anything!

If you’re enjoying wine, a full bodied white with medium acidity would be my recommendation; perhaps a Southern Rhône blend, gently oak-aged Chardonnay, Spätlese Riesling, or a delightfully lanolin Chenin form the Loire!